Harbor

Boston Harbor Islands: Ferries, Camping and What to See

A national park sits in the harbour a short ferry ride from downtown, and most residents have never been.

Filed byTerrence Boyle
Published
Read time5 minutes
Boston Harbor Islands: Ferries, Camping and What to See

Boston Harbor contains dozens of islands, many of them part of a national and state park area, reachable by ferry from downtown. It is the most underused amenity in the city, and a large share of lifelong residents have never been.

What is out there

The islands vary enormously. Some hold historic fortifications, some have beaches and walking trails, some offer camping, and some are essentially undeveloped.

Georges Island holds Fort Warren, a granite fortification from the 19th century that served as a Civil War prison. It is the island most visitors see first, and the fort is genuinely worth exploring: dark passages, parade ground, gun positions, and enough scale to occupy a couple of hours. Bring a torch.

Spectacle Island has beaches, walking paths, a visitor centre and high points with views back at the Boston skyline. Its history is unusual even by harbour standards: it was a dump for decades and was capped and landscaped into a park using material excavated during the Big Dig. The hills you walk on are, in a literal sense, the tunnel that runs under the city.

Peddocks Island is among the largest, with a mixture of former military structures, trails and camping.

Lovells, Bumpkin and Grape offer quieter experiences, camping on some, and considerably fewer people.

Thompson Island and others have their own access arrangements, which are not always the same as the main ferry network.

Getting there

Ferries run seasonally from downtown Boston, with Long Wharf the usual departure point. Some islands are served directly; others are reached by an inter-island shuttle from a hub island, typically Georges or Spectacle.

That second point is the one that catches people. If your target island requires a shuttle, your day is structured around two boat schedules rather than one, and missing the shuttle can mean missing the island entirely.

The season is limited. This is a summer and shoulder-season activity, and service is reduced or absent outside it. Check the current schedule rather than assuming a boat will be running, and book ahead for busy weekends.

What to bring

More than you think. Several islands have limited or no food service, limited shade and limited fresh water.

Bring water, food, sun protection and a layer. It is cooler and windier on the water and on an exposed island than in the city, and people who dress for a warm Boston afternoon regret it by four o'clock.

Wear real shoes. Fort Warren and the island trails involve uneven ground, and the granite inside the fort is dark and slick in places.

Bring a light for the fort passages, and check the return schedule before you wander. Missing the last ferry from an island is a memorable and entirely avoidable experience.

Camping

Camping is available on certain islands, seasonally and by reservation.

Sites are primitive: no cars, no shops, composting toilets, carry in and carry out. You can only arrive and leave when a boat runs, which means a forgotten essential stays forgotten for the duration.

The reward is a night in a national park area within sight of a major city skyline, which is a rare combination anywhere in the world. Reservations for the good summer weekends go early, and the popular islands book out well in advance.

The harbour cleanup

For much of the 20th century Boston Harbor was notoriously polluted, to the point of becoming a national political talking point in a presidential campaign.

The cleanup, driven by a federal court order and executed over decades at enormous public expense, transformed it. The treatment facility on Deer Island and the associated infrastructure are among the largest environmental engineering projects in the country, and the outcome is a harbour where people swim.

That history is the reason the islands are a park worth visiting rather than a place to avoid, and it is one of the more successful environmental remediation stories anywhere. Worth knowing while you are swimming off Spectacle Island, and worth remembering the next time someone says these things never work.

Planning a first visit

For a first trip with limited time, Georges plus Spectacle in one day is the standard and it works: a fort, a beach, a walk, and two boat rides through the harbour with the skyline behind you.

Go on a weekday if you can. Go early. Take the layer you think you will not need.

Which island for which kind of day

A first visit with limited time: Georges, for the fort, with a shuttle to Spectacle if the schedule allows.

Swimming and walking: Spectacle, which has a lifeguarded beach in season, marked trails and a visitor centre.

Solitude: the smaller islands, which see a fraction of the traffic. Bring everything you need.

With children: Georges is the reliable choice, because the fort is genuinely interesting to explore and there is space to run.

Camping: the islands offering it, booked well in advance for summer weekends.

Programming and history

The islands host guided walks, historical programming and seasonal events, and some carry significant Indigenous history predating any of the fortifications. The Massachusett people used these islands long before the harbour was a port, and interpretation at several sites now reflects that.

The military history is layered rather than singular: fortifications here span from the colonial period through the Second World War, because a harbour worth defending stays worth defending across centuries.

Accessibility

Accessibility varies substantially by island and by site. Some landings and paths are accessible; historic fortifications with granite steps and dark passages largely are not.

Ferries have their own accessibility provisions. If this matters, check the specific island and the specific vessel rather than assuming the park as a whole is accessible.

Practical warnings

Weather changes on the water, and a calm morning in the city can be a cold, windy afternoon on an exposed island. Service can be curtailed in poor conditions.

There is limited shade on several islands, and sun exposure over a full day on the water is more than people expect.

Ticks are present in the vegetated areas, as across New England. Check afterwards.

Carry out what you carry in. Facilities are minimal by design.

About the author

Terrence Boyle

Terrence Boyle covers housing, transit and the regional economy for Daily Bostonian, from the MBTA and development fights to the employers driving growth around Boston.